Monday, August 23, 2010

Gila Wilderness Area, New Mexico

By Jenny Jones

At my friend, Sarah’s urging, I am doing my first travel blog. I had many excuses for putting this off.  I don’t know how to do a blog. I never go anywhere exotic. Most people have never heard of the places I’ve been too. But then I realized, most people don’t get to go to such exotic places. And maybe “most people” would like to read a blog about something affordable, right here in the USA. Something they can possibly drive to. Something that they don’t show on the travel channel, or advertise in the magazines and brochures.  And besides, I do like to blabber about, I mean "share" my experiences with others. So, here goes.

As a resident of Phoenix, AZ, I always try to get someplace cooler, with lots of trees! So, to celebrate our fourth anniversary, last October, my husband John and I chose the Gila Wilderness area in Southwestern New Mexico.  This wilderness was created by way of the Wilderness Act of 1964. This act set aside primitive Forest Service areas as wilderness, not to be invaded by machines. Humans are allowed to visit, but not live in, these pristine areas. The Gila Wilderness was the first such designated wilderness.


The name is derived from the Gila River, that begins in the mountains of this wilderness area, and flows through New Mexico and AZ, before trickling into the Colorado river. It is one of the last undammed, navigable rivers in the US. 

Day 1: After driving about 5 hours through the southern AZ desert, we began our ascent into Silver City, NM. From there, it was another twenty some miles of twisty, windy two lane roads that took about an hour to traverse. We arrived at our destination, The Breathe Inn, an hour or so before sunset.  

Although this wouldn’t be considered a 5 star hotel, we very much enjoyed our stay here. Being off season, there were never more than 2 or 3 groups of people sharing this sprawling, rustic hotel with us.  The Breathe Inn was more than happy to accommodate our sheltie, Bonnie, at no extra charge. The desk clerk doubled as maid, dishwasher, and waitress.  She grew up in the area, and was a wealth of knowledge about the people and the area.  It felt more like a huge Bed and Breakfast, with 2 massive porches to relax and enjoy the scenery from, than a hotel. Needless to say, we found this quite a refreshing change from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Day 2:  we headed for the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument, about an hour or so from the hotel.  The “Trail of the Mountain Spirits” byway took us north, through the Gila Wilderness area. Along the way, we stopped at the Gila Hot Springs, for a nice soak and a picnic lunch.  We were completely charmed by the hot springs. We drove in, and not a soul was to be seen (this is a good thing).  A sign proclaims that you are at the Gila Hot Springs and Campground, and there is a box and envelope in which to deposit the exhorbitant fee of $3 per car. For your $3, you have the run of 3 hot springs (each a different temperature), and a lovely, shaded picnic area. The entire “compound” is decorated with junk art mobiles, crafted from old metal “stuff”.  Shade structures were liberally positioned throughout. The 3rd Hot Spring has a privacy fence, so you can “let it all hang out”.  The Gila river runs right behind the hot springs, and it was a beautiful day for kicking back and enjoying the quiet beauty of nature afforded by this delightful spot.  Our picnic lunch could not have tasted better in the most upscale restaurant in the country! Alas, it was time to move on to the cliff dwellings.


It was a half hour or so from the Hot Springs to the cliff dwellings. Here, a moderate, 1 mile scenic trail takes you to the dwellings, inhabited by Indians from circa 1270 to 1300 AD. Dogs were not allowed on the trail, but they had several nice, clean kennels, located under shady pine trees, with volunteer attendants for our dog, Bonnie. She had a very nice nap. The trail ascends about 180 feet from the canyon floor to the cliff dwellings, where the view is just astounding.  The steep, pine studded canyon stretches as far as the eye can see.  Several  volunteer docents were located throughout the dwellings to answer questions and imbue visitors with their vast knowledge of the ancient people that inhabited the area. A small museum showcasing the plant and animal life of the area completed our tour, and we headed back to our hotel.


The next day, we explored the Mimbres area of New Mexico.  This time, we headed East on the Trail of the Mountain Spirits. This area is named after the Mimbres Indians, who once inhabited the area. Although the area is a little lower in elevation than the Gila Wilderness area, it was just as scenic. We ambled along rolling hills, pastures, and wildlife, including an abundance of mule deer. We had some excellent New Mexican cuisine at a little bar and diner we stopped at, along the way.

Day 4 took us to Silver City, New Mexico. Along the way, we stopped and explored the town of Pinos Altos, about halfway between our hotel and Silver City. Pinos Altos (High Pines) is located smack dab along the Continental Divide, at a little over 7000 ft in elevation. The town was originally inhabited by gold miners, in 1860. Today’s inhabitants are mostly artists and tourists.  There are several historic buildings in this town, and they provide you with signs to follow for a little driving tour of the points of interest. Among the treasures found here, were an old adobe church, the Buckhorn Saloon and Opera House (which was closed for renovations when we were there), and the old courthouse. The Two Spirits cafĂ©, in “downtown” Pinos Altos, served us up a wonderful breakfast. The menu offered some very unique and diverse cuisine, and I really need to go back there, so I can try some or the other dishes!


We hit Silver City on Farmer’s Market day. We enjoyed wandering around the booths, and chatting with the locals. Silver City is a very dog friendly town. The local downtown businesses were happy to have Bonnie come in to visit, and most had treats to offer her. I’m sure she thought we were trick or treating!

The next day, we headed back to Phoenix.  We took the longer, scenic route, back. Highway 180 runs north and south along the AZ, NM border, taking us through beautiful, mountain and high desert terrain. We passed through many old towns, with beautiful old adobe buildings, both restored and not restored.  Next trip, we will spend a night at one of the quaint little towns along this highway. 

We will also visit some of the many places we learned about, but did not get to. Perhaps we will spend a day or two in the Glennwood area, where we can take the Gila Wilderness and Mogollon Ghost Town scenic byway to  Snow Lake. Or hike back to another Hot Spring in that area. And visit the Cat Walk National Scenic Trail, which spans the White Water Canyon, and continues on into the Gila Wilderness.  So much to see and so little time. I can’t wait for my next visit!